The typical workshop had a master tailor, who dealt directly with the client and cut out garments. There might be several cutters in a large establishment and they were at the top of the tailoring hierarchy, for cutting out was the most skilled part of the trade. Under them other journeymen tailors were responsible for a variety of activities, including padding and sewing in interlinings, pockets, and the difficult task of assembling the sleeve and turning the collar, as well as manipulating the heavy shaping iron called a goose. Apprentices were usually responsible for running errands and sweeping up scraps of fabric before being taught basic sewing skills. When sewing machines were introduced, machinists, who might be women, were also added to the workshop floor. The tailors who sewed the garment together sat on a workbench near natural light with legs crossed, hunched over their work. To sit cross-legged in French is still to be assis en tailleur, or sitting in the tailor's pose. click here
Textile designers have a heightened interest in combining both chemical and mechanical processes to develop beautiful and practical fabrics. Experimentation with high-tech interpretations of simple finishing techniques, such as calendering or mercerization, can give fabrics a variety of textures, from smooth and lustrous to crinkled or sculpted. The finish can dramatically transform a fabric's visual and tactile qualities as well as performance characteristics like stain resistance, wind resistance, or permanent-press features. Thermoplastic fibers can be molded with heat to create permanent three-dimensional surfaces. view more
Different to traditional fashion design programmes, this course focuses on femininity and the changing female silhouette, researching and questioning the impact of ‘shape-shifting’ design through masculinity vs. femininity, challenging tradition, looking at female empowerment and self-sureness and encouraging a real touch of creative flair in womenswear apparel. From an in-depth analysis of clothing manufacturing, participants study the language of couture construction versus ready to wear, progressing through all stages of the design process from fashion illustration, pattern making, pattern cutting and construction, right through to the finished garment. They are encouraged to experiment with new materials and technologies, including renewable and sustainable resources, negotiating the use of the flamboyant pairing of fabrics and experimental cutting techniques, as well as evaluating finishings, fabric embellishment, and small details that make the difference. The course provides a solid base in fashion design and the fashion system, looking at various targets in womenswear to be able to chose the appropriate design language, choice of materials, colour palettes and inspirational ‘stories’ to satisfy a design brief or brand identity, consumer habits and trends, and business positioning and marketing strategies. Research into fashion history and culture and historic references in art and dress further enhances creative thinking, inspiring participants to experiment with new design proposals. Communication skills provide an added professional approach in the negotiation and presentation of design ideas to companies and new clients know more
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