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The end of the 20th century has brought important new trends in fashion design, marketing tools and consumer attitudes that have reshaped the demands on the textile and apparel industry. The main consequences to apparel manufacturing have been a constant increase of individual production orders, product and materials variety and much smaller order quantities.
This fact posed new requirements on the production systems and equipment: both have to be flexible and reliable. In the case of the equipment, this means that quicker set-up times are required whenever material changes and that quality assurance has to be much more efficienct
Managing this situation with the traditional empirical machine set-up and process planning methods is difficult. Better control and predictability of the processes are required. Additionally, in the new and thriving segment of technical textiles, defects may represent failure of product functions, also demanding new methods that provide a more holistic and knowledge-based management and control of the processes.
To address some of the problems stated previously, in particular the quick response to small production orders, several new production organization methods have been devised. These are based on higher flexibility and interchangeability of the operators, smaller production units and batch sizes, and higher mobility of the production equipment. But the simple reorganization of production cannot address all issues: the variables related to the production process itself are still not controlled. Set-up of the machines is empirical and thus inaccurate and time-consuming. Initial set-up is maintained during operation regardless changing sewing conditions. Quality is assessed by visual inspection, often causing defective parts to pass unnoticed or to be detected very late.
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